Leave your car in the Col des Tentes, which is the end of the route. Continue on foot along the road closed to traffic in the direction of the Port of Boucharo, (1) which can be reached 25 minutes. After 1.6 km, walk on the old road, and at the intersection of Boucharo harbour, you will see a sign on the left towards the Brèche de Roland shelter.
The path climbs gently at the foot of the Gabiétous and on to Taillon. Continue until you reach the first real climb of the day, consisting of a wide glacial cross cliff under the Taillon glacier. Then cross a rocky bar shared by sheep and a stream. (2) Take care on the rock as it can be slippery when wet. Climb an area of moraine debris (3) along the winding path.
A rapid rise in the upper moraine leads to the narrow Cold des Sarradets (4)(1 hour 35 minutes without stops). The view across the top of the Gavarnie cirque is finally revealed. The trail descends and leads you in five minutes to the refuge of the Breche de Roland. (5) Be careful if snowfields persist, especially early in the season. From the refuge, the view of the Breche de Roland, facing south, is great.
Things get complicated after the refuge and the slope steepens sharply.
Head on the route of the rise of the Breche de Roland. The path takes the glacier’s moraine (melted when I passed through last, but this is not always the case and so care must be taken), first heading south, before turning west and making a wide turn back to the east towards the Breche.
Then we reach a ledge (6) where we discover the Breche before tackling a steep slope. Be careful, especially early in the season because gravel can cover the ice in places.
We reach Breche de Roland (7) in 2 hours without stops. Here, the views are stunning both towards the north and south.
After a few photo opportunities, we move to the Spanish side continuing right on the paths from the cliffs (8) of Pointe Bazillac. A short slope-side passage (caution if there is snow) follows. It leads to Le Doigt (9). Head round this to the north using your hands for stability. Be careful because this is the most exposed passage of the ascent. The route overlooks the Taillon glacier and we can now see the last part of the climb.
The trail is clearly visible on the south side whose colours vary from tan to grey. Follow the path left on the sometimes narrow border ridge. The last climb runs steeply along a path that rises up the Spanish side.
And the summit in good weather, the 360° view is beautiful and enormous. You can see the Balaïtous, Vignemale and its glacier, the Neouvielle Peak, the Cylindre and Marboré, Mont Perdu, and Gabiétous Peak.
To return, head back down the same path. Expect to reach the car park of the Col des Tentes in 4 hours.
