This walk is part of the trek El Camino Primitivo - from Oviedo to Santiago de Compostela.
This stage is the official route and avoids the detour to Friol and Sobrado dos Monxes. There is a fair amount of road walking but if the weather is unkind (i.e. wet and cold) that is probably a blessing. There are a number of villages to go through so plenty of opportunities to chat with local folk along the way. Santiago is getting closer and that will also probably mean more people on the trail but that can also be pleasant and conversation on the road will make the journey more entertaining.
Calculated time is computed with the distance, the height difference, and an average speed of 2.2 mph. For an intermediate walker, this time includes small breaks.
(D) From the Praza Maior in Lugo, head west along the Plaza Alférez into the Plaza Sta. María around the XIII century cathedral dedicated to Saint Mary, vía Rúa Bispo Basulto and into Praza Pío XII. A detour up the cobbled ramp will take you onto the roman walls and a view out to the city. Otherwise, head through the archway, puerta de Santiago and follow the street of the same name downhill (past the bookshop Porta Santiago). This street bends slowly to the left, along a high wall that hides the park of Rosalía de Castro. Keep going past the green, red and blue flats to a sharp righthand bend that takes us to the bridge over the N-6 main road. Keep going down Rúa Santiago to the beautiful old footbridge, Ponte Romano, over the river Miño. On the other side, turn right, down Rúa Fermín Rivera, following the river past the impressive Club Fluvial de Lugo and past the cemetery to a road junction.
(1) Turn left up the hill and follow this road bearing right at a fork with a blue Camino de Santiago sign as well as a post with scallop shell. Keep heading up the road to again bear right at another fork and eventually reach a local road. Turn right and follow this road across a stream to reach the main N-540 road. Bear slightly left crossing this busy road (avoid using the tunnel) and follow this new road southwest, bearing left at a fork in front of a pretentious arched entrance. Keep on this road for about 1 km to come out onto the busier LU-232 road. Go straight across and follow the white fencing along the LU-P-2901 road (there is an off-road path on the right). Follow this road for almost 5 km, past a red coloured building near Seoane, through Carrigueiros and into San Vicente do Burgo.
(2) There's a bar in San Vicente do Burgos, off to the right, signposted As Searas, 50 meters. If that doesn't tempt you, continue on the main road west for another 3 km. past A Uceira and on until you reach a footbath bearing off to the right, just before the 8 km sign. This takes us across the country and across a stream to reach Ferreiral. Take the righthand road out of the hamlet to head towards Bacurín to visit the church dedicated to San Miguel. From the church, head southwest across the country to meet the main road again near the turn off for Vigo. Once again on the main road heading west, in about 1 km we go through O Hospital. The road goes through San Pedro de Abaixo and Taboeiro. In another 3 km, the route reaches the crossroads at San Romao.
(3) Just before the crossroads on the righthand side is the church of San Romao de Retorta. Turn right, behind the church and walk up the road on the other side to the taverna. However, just before this bar, there is a Milenario Romano (actually, it's a replica). The route continues across the road from the bar. Continue along the track, past a couple of abandoned farm buildings (sign-posted Castrelo) and past a sign to the right to the Albergue de Candido hostal (well worth stopping the night if you need a rest). Ignore the next turnoff to the left and carry straight on out of the hamlet on a track bending right to head northwest. The track bends left at a stream, then at a fork bear right to reach and cross a couple of crossroads of other tracks. Keep heading west, crossing more tracks until you reach A Grela, where there is a stone bench under a tree on the left. Our route heads down the lane towards the houses, past allotments, following the yellow arrows. After a bend to the left, enter the hamlet of O Burgo de Negral.
(4) There is a refreshing fountain on the right as you go through the hamlet, eventually coming out onto the LU-P-2118 road. Go straight across and follow the country lane, rising slightly to pass a farm on the left as the road bends to the right. At a junction, turn left and go past a sign for Vilacarpide, then straight across at a crossroads near a white coloured building. Follow this road as it twists and turns, with well-trimmed hedgerows either side, to eventually reach the hamlet O Pacio and the church of Saint Mary. Keep straight on until you reach the LU-231 road. Cross straight over and follow the road heading west (sign-posted for Palas de Rei). Continue on this LU-P-2901 road as far as A Pena da Galina and a sign indicating the road to Ponte Romana to the left. This will take us past farm buildings and into the hamlet of A Ponte Ferreira and a recreational area next to the old bridge. Before turning right to reach the Albergue Ponte Ferreira on the CP-2911 road, head south along the track with a wall on the right. This leads to the church and cemetery dedicated to Saint Martin in the hamlet of Palas de Rei.(A)
D : mi 0 - alt. 1529ft - Lugo
1 : mi 1.52 - alt. 1247ft - Rúa Fermín Rivera
2 : mi 6.01 - alt. 1759ft - San Vicente do Burgo
3 : mi 11.45 - alt. 1873ft - San Romao
4 : mi 13.83 - alt. 1663ft - O Burgo de Negral
A : mi 16.49 - alt. 1722ft - A Ponte Ferreira
This stage is a bit long but, don't panic, it's all pretty easy walking and has plenty to keep the walker occupied. If there's time (and inclination) a visit to the enigmatic early Christian temple of Santalla de Bóveda (III or IV century) is recommended, currently the church of Santa Eulalia and declared as a Historical Heritage Site. The detour is signposted and also the return to the route, near A Uceira, just past San Vicente do Burgo. Also, worth planning ahead is lunch at the Mesón de Crecente, with traditional Galician food and good stewed meat dishes. You'll find it off to the right just after going through Taboeiro and before you reach San Román da Retorta
Visorando and this author cannot be held responsible in the case of accidents or problems occuring on this walk.
As described above, there are plenty of churches and historical buildings to be found along the way. Also, quite a few hamlets and villages that will allow you to say "Hola" to the locals. Book ahead (lunch and hostal) so that you can enjoy the walk without worrying too much about the time. Take time to enjoy the scenery and to chat to the people you pass, this is not a race and plans should be flexible. Don't leave any rubbish and don't damage the environment. Keep to the Country Code and respect the farmers, vegetation, animals and rivers. Don't take any plants or stones home; take photos (they last longer and you can share them). Say hello to fellow walkers and help anyone who needs it. Take care of yourself and make the most of the moment!
This stage goes through more rural landscapes, along small dirt tracks and quite a lot of tarmac with frequent slopes. In general, it's pretty moderate with the opportunity to visit small villages, a few of which have restaurant services. The route finishes in Melide, where we join the Camino Frances.
This stage runs through rural Galicia, with at least seven villages en route and plenty of places to stop for a rest (or even to stay the night if you want to split this stage into two or three mini-stages). Likewise, there are plenty of chapels, churches and fountains to visit. Our route follows the original way to Vilabade, which includes a visit to the church of Santa María, known as the "catedral de Castroverde".
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